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November 25, 2006

Fuller's London Porter

What can I say about Fuller's London Porter? It could very possibly be the world's most perfect manufactured porter. On pouring this into a glass, the first thing you'll notice is the sheer blackness of this beer. It's as if you're staring into the evil heart of the devil's own brew. There is no carbonic rise, like Guinness or even Murphy's. The head rises slowly, but deliberately to the top of the glass, but not with a fizziness of a post-fermented CO2 process. Instead, the head hangs onto the glass with a viscous and tannish body leaving it's mark, even after the glass is long-empty.

The pungent acidic nose of other porters is missing here. Replaced by chocolate and coffee overtones, fullers_lp.jpg a bite of caramel and the complex nuance of toasted nuts, the aroma claws its way into your head and foretells of great things to come. Keeping with the complexity of the fragrance, the taste is strong and sharp. The chocolate comes out immediately followed closely by an undeniably fruity undertone. The mouth-feel is surprisingly light compared to its appearance. It is sharp to the tongue with the subtle sweetness mixed with just the right amount of hoppy bitterness. The aftertaste lingers without any of the bitter leftovers you would expect from such a strong brew. Instead, you are left with a definite coffee piquancy and a smooth earthy coat in your mouth that drags you back to the glass for more.

Though the beer is not as filling as Murphy's or Beemish, its potential is there for this to play the dual roles of mealtime companion, as well as a great post-meal digestif. The taste itself is wonderfully complex, but not overbearing or pretentious in the least. Tight flavors mix well with many different cuisines but the typical Londoner would drink this over a offal-filled plate of kidney pie and Manchester United on the tele. I, however, do not usually eat steaming piles of guts, so some fish n' chips and a violent movie would be the best pairing for me. Don't think this is just a dark beer for the dark beer-fans. This is a dark beer for every beer fan. The flavors belie their perceptions and combine to a great beer with a complex and astoundingly good taste.

If you can find this in your area, grab some, chill it down and sit down for a long draw of one of the world's greatest beers.

Until next time.

November 20, 2006

Il Biscotto Americano!

For the past few months, I've experimented with the profound culinary majesty that is the American Biscuit. Primarily, since I live in Oklahoma, I've been working toward my favorite Southern biscuit recipe, and I think I've finally gotten it down. I worked from a base recipe in that old-school tome, the Betty Crocker cookbook. Although, every culture has a biscuit recipe, it's the regional eccentricities that make each one of them genuine.

This one is a basic baking powder-leavened, non-buttermilk recipe that is built on 6 ingredients (seven, if you count butter and shortening separately) that everyone should have in bulk in their pantry. I haven't added anything special to this yet (gasp!) but this is very easily made quick bread with the possibilities of any addition or substitution you find necessary for your particular tastes.

  • 2 cups flour
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 3½ tsp baking powder
  • 1 T sugar
  • ¾ c milk
  • ¼ c cold shortening
  • ¼ c cold butter

Preheat the oven to 450˚. Start by sifting the flour, salt, sugar and baking powder into a bowl. Measure the butter and shortening together, using the water-displacement method (the only really accurate way). I found that if you add a piece or two of ice after getting the measurement and let it sit for a few minutes, the final product is more flaky and has a much betterbiscuits_6871.jpg mouth-feel. Add the shortening and butter to the dry mixture and cut in with a pastry cutter or a couple of knives. The idea is not to heat the mixture at all and the final product should be fairly colloidal with chunks of shortening and butter throughout.

Add the milk and mix carefully together with a fork until blended. You don't want to beat this to death, just bring it together until it's workable. Transfer it to a heavily floured board and knead it only three or four times before forming it into a ball. Again, you do not want to overwork this dough, gluten development is not what you're looking for here. Pat or roll this out to around ¾" thick and cut into rounds with a biscuit cutter or some round cookie cutters. I use the 3" diameter rounds. The cut should be pressed down completely straight and then slightly twisted to bring it up. Don't twist on the downstroke or the dough won't rise correctly and you'll have a very flat and tough final product. The yield for this is about 5 or 6 biscuits.

Place these close in a baking pan or on a sheet pan and bake until golden brown and delicious. This should be around 12-15 minutes. You'll notice a significant rise after about 3 minutes in the oven. Brush with butter and serve hot. The high heat will create a thicker, crispier crust on the outside and a soft and tender inside. If you prefer a little more give to the outside of the biscuit, then lower the oven temp to 400 and bake for a few minutes longer.

I hope you give these a try. From conception to oven, the process takes only about 5 minutes. If you really want to do it right, fry up some country sausage and make a gut-busting sawmill gravy to ooze over a plate of these fine-tasting biscuits.

November 1, 2006

Buon Giorno di Tutti i Sante!

Happy All Saints Day, everybody.

Tomorrow ... Giorno d'Morti.